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Crucial RAM for HX90

joey

Administrator
Staff member
Some users have reported that this memory can be used with the HX90. Hope this information is helpful to you.
 

Carbon fib'er

Well-Known Member
Can anyone confirm if this Crucial ct16g4sf8320 memory would work in the HX90?
FYI, that memory may not be dual-rank. Crucial doesn't mention that (consistently) anymore. It's not a category they differentiate (G.Skill doesn't either, or at least with some same-spec memory I contacted them about.). If you were buying it new, for about the same price you can get dual rank Timetac, Atech or Kingston. That's worthwhile to do because you get a 5% performance gain for almost no additional expense (just the headache of researching if a product is dual rank. It's not always a spec in the forefront. Like I said, some big name products don't even emphasize specs. It can be frustrating to sort out.).

But, if you already have Crucial, or found a cheap deal on that pictured pair, this isn't something to obsess about. It's a relatively small performance boost (compared to buying 3200 vs 2700 speed ram).
 

CHAFF

Member
FYI, that memory may not be dual-rank. Crucial doesn't mention that (consistently) anymore. It's not a category they differentiate (G.Skill doesn't either, or at least with some same-spec memory I contacted them about.). If you were buying it new, for about the same price you can get dual rank Timetac, Atech or Kingston. That's worthwhile to do because you get a 5% performance gain for almost no additional expense (just the headache of researching if a product is dual rank. It's not always a spec in the forefront. Like I said, some big name products don't even emphasize specs. It can be frustrating to sort out.).

But, if you already have Crucial, or found a cheap deal on that pictured pair, this isn't something to obsess about. It's a relatively small performance boost (compared to buying 3200 vs 2700 speed ram).
Thanks very much, I suspect it might be this ram that is causing a black screen\no boot\black screen condition on a new HX90. I've tried one in each slot but that made no difference. Does anyone know if the HX90 will give a simple black screen on empty RAM slots boot?

Thanks,
-L
 

Carbon fib'er

Well-Known Member
Are you able to get into the bios? (I don't have my HX90 yet. I've read the delete key takes you to the bios (f7 is boot choices). If you have nothing happening (no display activity), what kind of display connection do you have? I've seen threads about how the HDMI cable used can be a problem. Something about using a powered or active dvi or dp convertor(?). I don't understand it, but I've seen that topic 3-4 times.
 

CHAFF

Member
Nope, never see a BIOS screen or POST screen, I also read that HDMI\DVI issue thread and thought that could be it, but I tried a few monitors and cables with and without converters and nothing.... just turns itself on when power is applied and black screen(LCD's show no signal). I ordered the Timetac memory and then we'll try again.
 

Carbon fib'er

Well-Known Member
If I were going to roll the dice on different memory, I would do Kingston KVR32S22D8/16 or KVR32S22D8/32. One stick as a test (they're dual rank). Minisforum uses Kingston in its non-bare systems (albeit single-rank). I thought I saw something recommending Kingston as the gold standard? You've already rolled the dice on Crucial. Maybe it would be better to buy one of those Kingston sticks instead of Timetac. Rule out any question of compatibility? (I've seen people say they use Timetac. But, that's not the same as Minisforum building systems with it.).

FWIW: It's always seemed like the bios will report basic show-stopper errors. (If you remove your memory from your laptop, wouldn't you expect to see a "no memory found" msg?). I keep thinking it sounds like that display-cable problem we've both seen mentioned. I still don't understand what that problem was about. But, I saw more than one person who ran into it. Your experience (seeing nothing at all) sounds more like that than bad/unrecognized memory (assuming the bios would report the error to the screen).
 
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adrian

Active Member
I'm using Timetec 32GB KIT(2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz . They are dual rank. Works great at 3200 MHz (there was a thread, your memory must support 3200 MHz as JEDEC not XMP only.But the momory will still work, only slower so this is not your case. About cables, I'm using only DP port to DP input on monitors (one is 4K the other is 2K). I use good DP cables , in theory they are certified for up to 8K video. If your monitor has HDMI use the HDMI outputs directly and again use cables certified for at least your monitor resolutions, You just need adapters if you use multiple monitors and run out of proper input/outputs you can find adapters from DP output to HDMI, but not oposite so you can not do HDMI to DP. Again not your case you just want to get one monitor working so youse a cable matching your monitor input.About black screen yes if your memory does not work at all so it's not compatible at signal level, you need one working at 1.2V not higher, than yes you will have a black screen, no BIOS. Not sure if you get any beeps, some systems will beep if they have a build in small speaker, but I do not think HX90 has one so will not be any beeps.From your picture the memory is 1,2V.Make sure the memory is properly set in the socket.How about the power? Do you get the push button blue when you start ? This should work regardless of the momory, if it does not you have a busted power brick.
 
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Carbon fib'er

Well-Known Member
I'm using Timetec 32GB KIT(2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz . They are dual rank. Works great at 3200 MHz ...
FYI, my encouraging the OP to buy a stick of Kingston wasn't intended to discourage using Timetac. I've seen people say it works. But, the only memory I've seen Minisforum recommend (and use) is Kingston (although I've seen them acknowledge "someone has said that product works."). In this case, where it might come down to RMA back to Minisforum, I was thinking it could be beneficial to eliminate any possible quibbling (since he's tried one non-Kingston already).

But, I agree with you. It probably wouldn't matter. It's just that, if it didn't work, then I'd want to at least be able to say "I used the recommended Kingston." Leave no possible room for argument about it.

If the OP has a multimeter, they could see if there's DC voltage at the barrel connector-end of the AC adapter. If so, then I think they'll have to contact minisforum for how they want to proceed replacing the motherboard, or entire box? (I think the remaining variable would be the HDMI cable. Reading hdmi-cable reviews on Amazon, that's a fairly common problem especially with low-cost cables.)
 
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Carbon fib'er

Well-Known Member
FYI: I received my HX90 today, and had a similar experience as you. I installed ram, nvme, inserted an external usb flash drive with Linux install media. I booted, and nothing. "Signal not supported" floated across the screen. After awhile I started hitting keys and the "live usb" environment booted (the screen displayed the boot messages, and it finished with a desktop).

I replaced that Acer HDMI monitor with a older Acer monitor (DVI connection, and a hdmi/dvi cable I've had for a long time). That showed the bios, and the grub menu to choose the "live usb" environment (from the USB boot media). So, there's something screwey about this Acer SB220Q monitor. It doesn't "see" (or sync with?) the signal when the HX90 is displaying the initial, low-res bios msgs, and that Linux grub menu which is also textual. (But, it comes to life as Linux boots. That's textual too. But, it's thrown into a different "mode" apparently, and the monitor decides to "see" that.

I might have thought I had your same problem if I hadn't started banging the keyboard and caused the unseen grub menu to be activated, and the boot to begin. If I hadn't hit the right key, all I would have seen is the blue-lit power button on the box, and heard the fan. That's all that would have told me "ok, it's getting power." Other than that, it looked dead. (Fortunately I had this other monitor and was able to see the bios and grub info with it. Now I have to find a monitor that doesn't have that finicky taste for what it will display. Hopefully this isn't a common problem with monitors. I thought the memory or something would be the tedious/delicate part of this purchase. I never dreamed the monitor would be a challenge. Hopefully it's just this one Acer model that is problematic.).
 

CHAFF

Member
FYI: I received my HX90 today, and had a similar experience as you. I installed ram, nvme, inserted an external usb flash drive with Linux install media. I booted, and nothing. "Signal not supported" floated across the screen. After awhile I started hitting keys and the "live usb" environment booted (the screen displayed the boot messages, and it finished with a desktop).

I replaced that Acer HDMI monitor with a older Acer monitor (DVI connection, and a hdmi/dvi cable I've had for a long time). That showed the bios, and the grub menu to choose the "live usb" environment (from the USB boot media). So, there's something screwey about this Acer SB220Q monitor. It doesn't "see" (or sync with?) the signal when the HX90 is displaying the initial, low-res bios msgs, and that Linux grub menu which is also textual. (But, it comes to life as Linux boots. That's textual too. But, it's thrown into a different "mode" apparently, and the monitor decides to "see" that.

I might have thought I had your same problem if I hadn't started banging the keyboard and caused the unseen grub menu to be activated, and the boot to begin. If I hadn't hit the right key, all I would have seen is the blue-lit power button on the box, and heard the fan. That's all that would have told me "ok, it's getting power." Other than that, it looked dead. (Fortunately I had this other monitor and was able to see the bios and grub info with it. Now I have to find a monitor that doesn't have that finicky taste for what it will display. Hopefully this isn't a common problem with monitors. I thought the memory or something would be the tedious/delicate part of this purchase. I never dreamed the monitor would be a challenge. Hopefully it's just this one Acer model that is problematic.).

WOW..... awesome work.... I will definitely do more testing today. BTW, I had 19.55V on the power brick output.
 

Carbon fib'er

Well-Known Member
WOW..... awesome work.... I will definitely do more testing today. BTW, I had 19.55V on the power brick output.
When I first replied to you, I hadn't seen an HX90. But, now that I've seen mine, does your power button turn blue? Do you hear the fan start (it's beneath the top cover). If you have voltage from the AC adapter, but no blue button (no fan sound), then that sounds dead. I don't know if bad memory would cause that. I don't think it would. (How did you get that Crucial memory? Did you buy direct, or find used on ebay? If it's the latter, maybe someone knew it was bad and cheated you. Buying stuff like this on ebay is risky that way. People unload broken stuff.).
 

Carbon fib'er

Well-Known Member
It came to my mind that when you installed the memory you had to pull the motherboard out to access it, and there is that mylar ribbon cable? Is it possible you disturbed how that cable is seated?

I flipped open the clamp on the socket, and let the cable release from the board. But, when I reassembled, it struck me how there's no "locking tab" to ensure the cable is properly seated (and hold it from pulling out). Laptops I've seen with similar cables have a tab that sits behind a bolster. When you press the swiveling thing down to press the cable into the contacts, that tab-behind-the-bolster prevents the cable from pulling out. So, it appeared to me that it would be possible to pull it out, or to not properly seat it when reinstalling.

If something went wrong there, maybe it would look like a dead computer?

After I did mine, I wondered if it's better to remove a couple screws from the thing the other end of the ribbon cable attaches to, and remove that small board attached to the side of the case. Even then, I think it would be possible for that ribbon cable to pull out of its socket a little since there's no "tab" to secure it against that kind of force. (I didn't look at the other end, the small board attached to the side of the case. If it's the same connector as the MB side, I bet it could slip out a little too with enough force.

You might want to look at both ends and make sure that cable is fully seated into that clamp. If I recall, there was a white line across the cable and it lined up with a white line on the connector. That looked like a visual guage that it's seated before pushing the swiveling clamp down? Maybe just see if you see what I'm talking about & it looks aligned? A little tugging while you were working could have caused it to slip out a little? (Or, maybe even damage the cable. It looked like it wouldn't take much. This is one of those things I wish minisforum sold as a product on the web page without requiring support contact, etc. I wish I had a couple spares.).
 

CHAFF

Member
When I first replied to you, I hadn't seen an HX90. But, now that I've seen mine, does your power button turn blue? Do you hear the fan start (it's beneath the top cover). If you have voltage from the AC adapter, but no blue button (no fan sound), then that sounds dead. I don't know if bad memory would cause that. I don't think it would. (How did you get that Crucial memory? Did you buy direct, or find used on ebay? If it's the latter, maybe someone knew it was bad and cheated you. Buying stuff like this on ebay is risky that way. People unload broken stuff.).
Yup, so still happening to me. But I'm waiting for the Kingston memory to show up. And I think I'm gonna try to borrow some LCD's too.

So I plug in the power connector and the power button turns blue and the fan fires up. Nothing ever appears on the screen (just no signal). The only other thing I can do is hold the power button and it will shutdown(turn the fan off). I put in a bootable USB key and pressed all the keys on the keyboard but it didn't do anything else. Did you ever figure out what key combination is needed to either get into the BIOS or load from USB?
 

CHAFF

Member
It came to my mind that when you installed the memory you had to pull the motherboard out to access it, and there is that mylar ribbon cable? Is it possible you disturbed how that cable is seated?

I flipped open the clamp on the socket, and let the cable release from the board. But, when I reassembled, it struck me how there's no "locking tab" to ensure the cable is properly seated (and hold it from pulling out). Laptops I've seen with similar cables have a tab that sits behind a bolster. When you press the swiveling thing down to press the cable into the contacts, that tab-behind-the-bolster prevents the cable from pulling out. So, it appeared to me that it would be possible to pull it out, or to not properly seat it when reinstalling.

If something went wrong there, maybe it would look like a dead computer?

After I did mine, I wondered if it's better to remove a couple screws from the thing the other end of the ribbon cable attaches to, and remove that small board attached to the side of the case. Even then, I think it would be possible for that ribbon cable to pull out of its socket a little since there's no "tab" to secure it against that kind of force. (I didn't look at the other end, the small board attached to the side of the case. If it's the same connector as the MB side, I bet it could slip out a little too with enough force.

You might want to look at both ends and make sure that cable is fully seated into that clamp. If I recall, there was a white line across the cable and it lined up with a white line on the connector. That looked like a visual guage that it's seated before pushing the swiveling clamp down? Maybe just see if you see what I'm talking about & it looks aligned? A little tugging while you were working could have caused it to slip out a little? (Or, maybe even damage the cable. It looked like it wouldn't take much. This is one of those things I wish minisforum sold as a product on the web page without requiring support contact, etc. I wish I had a couple spares.).
Yup had also checked that socket, clamp and ribbon cable... but never checked the swtich side since the power button seems to be working... but I will check it.
 

Carbon fib'er

Well-Known Member
Did you ever figure out what key combination is needed to either get into the BIOS or load from USB?
The delete key enters the bios. F7 is the boot options. What you describe sounds exactly like what I experienced. This Acer HDMI monitor wouldn't sense the display signal until Linux started booting (some kind of "modeset" occurred causing the monitor to recognize the display signal). But, I have an older Acer DVI (and a HDMI to dvi cable), and that showed me that there really was a display signal the whole time. I have a "Scepter" monitor on the way. Once I realized my problem, I was able to press enter after 30 seconds, and it would boot the USB stick. Once I got it installed, then it's fine. I just don't see the boot msgs. No big deal (but, I'd never be able to do anything with my bios without switching to the other monitor).

Hopefully the Scepter doesn't have the same problem. I'm not looking forward to going through a bunch of monitors trying to find one that works. When I read the reviews for the Acer SB220Q, it sounded like other people were complaining about the same problem with other computers. Hopefully I just had bad luck picking that one out of the blue (fortunately I have a week remaining to return it.). I wouldn't know what to look for if compatibility were a sensitive issue. We'd have to start a list of "compatible monitors." I can't believe monitors could be that finicky, and a treacherous market (like Acer) finding things that work the way they should. The way you're having the same problem, I'm worried it's not just bad luck with my choice of this bad Acer model.

In my experience, I didn't have to see the boot menu. I think because nothing was even formatted inside the box (nothing even remotely bootable higher up the boot order), it proceeded to the USB stick and was sitting there on the grub menu to boot Sparky rolling 2022.3. I started hitting keys, and all of a sudden the screen displayed the linux boot msgs (a "modeset" had occurred, and kicked the monitor into doing something.). That's when I realized the system was working, and I wasn't seeing something. That's when I had the idea to use the other DVI/HDMI monitor. Then I was able to see the bios, and boot menu.

To recreate that, you would want to remove any nvme/ssd/hdd devices that you installed in the box, and see if the bios boot sequence will proceed to the USB stick. (The only reason I suggest removing such devices is because, if they're formatted, maybe the bios process would sense them as bootable devices and get hung up that they're not bootable? Mine had no partitions, no formatting. At best they had a gpt partition table (but no partitions). They were new nvme, ssd & hdd (new out of the box. Never touched). The bios landed on the USB stick with Sparky rolling 2022.3 (xfce), which displays a grub menu to choose "Live USB" (whatever it's called. The normal boot into the "live desktop"), "Safe mode" (or rescue mode), or memtest. I don't remember what the options are. But, the first choice that it was sitting on worked when I pressed enter (without being able to see anything).

If you have a USB stick with some other ISO "burned" to it, you might try that exact same Sparky. Reportedly, these newer Ryzen 9 zen 3 systems need the newest Linux. If your stick had Ubuntu or something, those tend to be more stable distros (consequently older kernels). If it were too old, perhaps it would hang before whatever modeset caused my monitor to come alive? You could rule that out with the same iso I used. I would wait 30 seconds, then press enter (and wait a few more seconds. It took 10 seconds for the monitor to come alive. Which makes me wonder what was happening until then, and if an older iso might hang then and you wouldn't see it.). My USB has an LED light inside it. I was able to see it flicker. (I didn't notice it at first because I tape over the USB and write what Linux version is on that. I should put the tape on the down-facing side because that ended up being a clue to watch to know if it was doing something.).
 
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